Oh what a feelin’….
Dancin’ on the Ceiling is a three pitch, varied aid and free climb ascending the biggest part of the biggest roof (that I know of) in WNC, located on the Northern Aggression Wall on the North Side of Cedar Rock. The route was pecked away at over a period of 3 years. Many people helped establish this climb in its various stages including Rhon Manor, Jeff Heveron, Mony Mohrota, Nathan Brown, and Heath Alexander. Thanks for the patience!
Dancin’ on the Ceiling, 5.10 C1, 270 ft
FA: Mike Reardon, Heath Alexander, completed in a variety of styles 2015
Gear: Standard rack and bolts. Loweballs and brass optional.
Route: A technical slab, a GIANT aid roof, a groove, and a splitter crack. Varied and exciting. It can all be done with a single 70M.
P1 (5.9, 70 ft): The white slab pitch. Start directly behind the large dying tree with a suggestive hole at its base (just right of “Lightning Flake”). Begin on a mossy left facing corner, leading to gear in horizontals. After the first gear horizontal, work up and slightly left on quality friction edges looking for gear under the shallow roof band. From here, move back right to a bull horn hold below the first bolt. Follow the techy white face right of the lichen to the ledge under the roof. The single bolt anchor should be backed up with a #1 cam.
P2 (C1, 70 ft.): The roof pitch. Make a few free moves to the juggy crack. Aid on cams and possible Loweballs to bolts intermixed with a gear placements. Amazing exposure. This is equipped for a free climb for some superhuman. Hooks were attempted on the FA, resulting in broken rock. The “bolt ladder” is 4 bolts, gear, then 2 more bolts. The climber in the photo left is at the anchor.
P3 (5.10 C1, 120 ft): The crack pitch. Follow bolts and small TCU placements in a shallow groove with several interesting 5.10 stemming groove moves, same some energy for the 50 foot splitter crack. After the crack, there are two closely spaced bolts. We pulled on one during the FA, hence the C1 rating on this pitch. Likely goes at 5.11 friction.
Conditions: Typically dry. P1 may have some wet moss at the start.