Please send any addition corrections or updates to mikereardon80(at)hotmail.com
P.97 Route called “Grey Matter” was originally a Tom McMillan route, which started on what is now called “Killer Whales”. It was A4 during the 1974 FA due to a lack of heads. Stacked pins were placed with tie offs.
P. 98 “Invisible Brailleways” 5.13a is a new link up by Zach Mintz with more info here.
P.98 “Saint of Circumstance” 5.12+ is a new route by Ben Kegan listed here.
P. 113 “Whispers of the North” 5.12d is a new route by Jacob Ward listed here.
P.117 Route 63 should be called “Pyscho”
P. 126 “Free Man in Paris” FA was Bob Rotert and Tom McMillan
P.129 new route; located left of Crescendo called “Wrench in my Pocket” 5.11a FA Karsten Delap: info here
P.142 “Psychedelic Delusions of the Digital Man” has gone free by Armand Le Doucer and Jacob Ward at 5.13c. Info here.
P. 168 Hobo Wall. Route #4,”Project Black Streak” was sent in early 2018 by Geoff Jones. 5.12b, now named “Vagabond”
P. 180 There is a two bolt anchor right of the pitch two belay Gemini Cracks, 95 feet above the Sentry Box Ledge. This anchor makes it possible to retrieve from surrounding routes using the Gemini rap line with one 60M rope. Under this anchor is a 5.10 climb with two lead bolts, dubbed Legacy.
P.199 Four routes have been added between “Read Icculus” and “Dragon Scale Rise” at Fate Osteen Cove. From left to right those include:
15a. Thirty Years Later, 5.7 2 pitches FA Bryan Haslam and Jonathan Hamilton,
15b. Granite Dust Pleasure 5.7 100′ FA Bryan Haslam and Pete Sawyer,
15c. As Fate Would Have It 5.9 100′ FA Dan Riethmuller and Forrest Stavish, and
15d. Outwitting Aropos 5.10 FA Forrest Stavish
P. 241 Horse Cove Ice: Two WI4 ice climbs have been uncovered by Mike Reardon and Shannon Millsaps and formed near the routes Charlie Horse and Waters Edge. Be sure the top is in thick before leading!!! Shannon and Mike TR’d due to thinness in 2024. 150′ each.
P.241 A WI3/4? has been lead with small screws in the groove to the right of “Hold Your Horses”, and named “Banshee’s Lonely Croon”, FA Curtis Baird and Shannon Millsaps in 2026. The top really thins out so you may need to assess before leading. It’s 100′ or more if you go to trees.
P. 278 Route #7 is now named “The Columbian”
P.282 Route #30 should be named “Unknown”
P. 299 Route #12 is now named “Cancel Culture”
P. 344: “Wildcat Falls” should be graded WI2.
P. 345: “Below Small Wonders Ice” An 80′ WI2+ forms along the approach trail to Small Wonders Wall. It is somewhat rare, but is a nice warm up to Sams. Park the same as Sams but head down to the river, cross the river then schwack uphill and slight right for 10 minutes. You should be able to see it from the parking lot. The top of the route affords a nice view of most flows on the West Face of Sams.
P. 345-347: The approach description to the “West Face of Sam’s Knob” is incorrect. From the parking pull off described on 215, walk north (not south as stated in the book and on the map) on route 215 for a few hundred feet, looking for a small foot path on the east (right) side of the road. Follow the faint trail sharply uphill and slightly right. It should be about 15 minutes of uphill before you are at the creek leading to the ice. If you are fighting rhodos, you went the wrong way.
P.347: The route “West Face of Sam’s Knob” has a third variation on P2. In very cold years, a 50′ vertical pillar forms on the left side of P2 and is WI4.
P. 373 The route “Clean Slate” has its own anchor.